hiking | Serenity Spell

Apr 3

Love in the Florida Forest

Still not quite able to tackle the bigger hikes, we ventured to lovely Fern Forest, a magnificent conservation site and wildlife refuge located in Broward County. Encompassing 247 acres, researchers have characterized the site as “the last remaining stronghold of ferns in southeastern Florida.” This beautiful and diverse natural area represents the last remnant of the historical Cypress Creek floodway. Today, Fern Forest remains a significant refuge for wildlife in this highly urbanized region, and hosts many educational activities, conservation events, and nature programs. The park encompasses ten plant communities, including a tropical hardwood hammock, an open prairie, and a cypress-maple swamp. Visitors can investigate three main trails: The Cypress Creek Trail (a wonderful boardwalk); the Prairie Overlook Trail, which includes a 20-foot-tall observation platform; and the Maple Walk, winding through an often soggy red maple swamp.

During our weekend visit we hit the Prairie Overlook Trail and the expansive boardwalk; the butterflies were especially active after an unexpected Saturday monsoon. As always, I try to catch the swallowtails in action, but fail miserably and land in the oversized banana spiderwebs. But I did manage to snap a private moment between mating Viceroy Butterflies (Limenitis archippus) — cue the appropriate music; I was humming it for them at the time.

Deep in the darkness of the Prairie Overlook Trail, my guy spotted this sublime palm…a love tree! I’m only sorry I didn’t find it first; it was completely tucked away in a riot of Florida growth.

For More Information:

Fern Forest Nature Center

Mar 9

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Air, Water + Earth: The Savannas

Despite our fanatical hiking throughout South Florida, we had never investigated the Savannas — and within the space of one week, it came up in conversation no less than three times (once from a fellow blogger). Obviously a sign! We were insanely lucky to visit on a cool, cloudy, and windy day after an unseasonably warm (read: HOT) spell. We investigated a few trails from the Education Center, as well as further within the park. Afterwards, we drove towards Jensen Beach to check out Hawk’s Bluff, also part of the park and an extension of the Florida Trail. Located along the eastern edge of the Savannas, Hawk’s Bluff is a lovely 1-mile loop trail, marked by sand dunes and oak hammocks, leading to the water’s edge overlooking the Savannas. If anyone has suggestions for other trails and access points, please give a shout!

Managing nearly 6,000 acres, the preserve represents the largest and most ecologically intact swath of freshwater marshes, or “savannas,” that once extended along Florida’s entire southeast coast. Looking across their lovely vastness today, it’s downright depressing to picture the hotels that currently reside in their place. The open wetlands filter rainwater and runoff from the surrounding dunes and pine flatwoods, creating a unique biological community — an endangered landscape — as they continue to preserve and feed vital waterways and ecosystems, including the Atlantic scrub ridge, freshwater marshes, and the estuaries of the St. Lucie Inlet. The preserve is comprised of six natural communities: pine flatwoods, wet prairie, basin marsh, marsh lake, sand pine scrub, and scrubby flatwoods. While each community is home to its own fauna and flora populations, the sand pine scrub habitat represents an increasingly imperiled ecosystem, and shelters several of Florida’s most threatened and endangered animal and plant species. The Savannas’ many wildlife species include the threatened Florida scrub jays, gopher tortoises, alligators, deer, and sandhill cranes. American bald eagles have recently made their homes in the preserve, as well — the nests of several pairs are located in the more isolated areas. The park is also one of the few remaining natural habitats in the U.S. for the endangered (and inedible) prickly apple cactus (Harrisia fragrans), which grows along the Atlantic Ridge in the scrub regions.

Being a chilly and windy day, we didn’t run into too many critters, but I did manage to spot a few (with some trees thrown in for good measure):

Green-on-Green Dragonfly

Water Flower

Rat Snake Catching Some Sun

Palm and Savannas

Live Oak on the Hawk’s Bluff Trail

For More Information:

Mar 7

Marshes and Pines at Savannas Preserve State Park, FL

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Savannas Preserve State Park: Southeast Florida’s Endangered Marshes

The Savannas Preserve State Park extends more than 10 miles in St. Lucie County, from Jensen Beach to Ft. Pierce. Managing nearly 6,000 acres, the preserve represents the largest and most ecologically intact swath of freshwater marshes, or “savannas,” that once extended along Florida’s entire southeast coast. Looking across their lovely vastness today, it’s downright depressing to picture the hotels that currently reside in their place. The open wetlands filter rainwater and runoff from the surrounding dunes and pine flatwoods, creating a unique biological community — and an endangered landscape — as they continue to preserve and feed vital waterways and ecosystems, including the Atlantic scrub ridge, freshwater marshes, and the estuaries of the St. Lucie Inlet. Slash pine trees in open grasslands mark the preserve, which is comprised of six natural communities: pine flatwoods, wet prairie, basin marsh, marsh lake, sand pine scrub, and scrubby flatwoods. While each community is home to its own fauna and flora populations, the sand pine scrub habitat represents an increasingly imperiled ecosystem, and shelters several of Florida’s most threatened and endangered animal and plant species.

Hawk’s Bluff Trail

Despite our fanatical hiking throughout South Florida, we had never been to the park — and within the space of one week, “Have you ever been to the Savannas?” came up in conversation no less than three times (once from a fellow blogger). Obviously a sign! We were insanely lucky to visit on a cool, cloudy, and windy day after an unseasonably warm (read: HOT) spell. What’s good to know about the Savannas — for hikers, at least — is that there are multiple access/entry points for the park, to pick up trails. We investigated some of them at the Education Center, as well as further in the park. Afterwards, we drove east and south towards Jensen Beach (Blvd), then north on Savannah Road to check out Hawk’s Bluff, part of the park and an extension of the Florida Trail. Located along the eastern edge of the Savannas, Hawk’s Bluff is a beautiful 1-mile loop trail, with sand dunes and oak hammocks, leading to the water’s edge overlooking the Savannas. It was reminiscent of Northern California wilderness, and even a crater hike we did in Ocala. Just lovely. We can’t wait to return to investigate some of the other trails and access points…. If anyone has suggestions, please give a shout!

Flora & Fauna

The Savannas’ many wildlife species include the threatened Florida scrub jay, which is a year-round resident of the park, and gopher tortoises, alligators, deer, and sandhill cranes. American bald eagles have recently made their homes in the preserve, as well — the nests of several pairs are located in more isolated areas, and the birds have been seen by visitors as they hunt (not by us this time, sadly!). The park is also one of the few remaining natural habitats in the U.S. for the endangered (and inedible) prickly apple cactus (Harrisia fragrans), which grows along the Atlantic Ridge in the scrub regions.

Activities

Over 15 miles of multi-use trails are available for hiking, biking, and horseback riding. Canoeing, kayaking, and fishing in the wetlands are other popular activities. Picnic shelters are available throughout the preserve, with no reservation necessary.

History

Marshes and Pines of the Savannas

Archaeological evidence has dated native occupation to the area to 7,000 years ago. Native peoples lived along the Atlantic Ridge, and relied on the font of wildlife and plant life of the nearby Indian River for sustenance. The term ‘savannah’ was used to describe a series of ponds and marshes that was “discovered” here during the Second Seminole War (1835-1842) by Lt. Colonel Benjamin Pierce. Pineapples began to be planted in the area in 1879 by Captain Thomas Richards, grown from cuttings transported from Key West. Jensen Beach quickly became known as the ‘Pineapple Capital of the World’ from 1895 to 1920, due to the explosion of pineapple plantations along the Atlantic Ridge. The park joined the Florida Park Service in 1977, and now encompasses nearly 6,000 acres.

Environmental Education Center & More

Environmental Education Center

Lucky at the Environmental Education Center

At the Environmental Education Center, visitors can learn about the importance of this unique and endangered natural habitat. Live exhibits, a gift shop, and self-guided tour booklets are available at the Center, which is a veritable font of information for the newbie/learning Florida hiker (we seemed to be the sole native Floridians visiting that day) — they had great reference materials, and some wonderful people holding down the fort (thanks Lucky Straeffer!). Visit the website or pick up a calendar of events and the Echoes newsletter (also provided in the weblinks, below) for more info. The nonprofit support organization Friends of Savannas Preserve State Park also offers interpretive guided tours and canoe/kayak trips.

Hours & Pricing:

2541 Walton Road
Port St. Lucie, Florida 34952
(772) 398-2779

8 a.m. until sundown 365 days a year
Education Center: Thursday – Monday, 9-5

$3 / Vehicle

Short but Lovely Trail

Preparing for the Next Scout/Hike

Hawk’s Bluff Trail

Savannas at the Hawk’s Bluff Trail

Water’s Edge, Hawk’s Bluff Trail

Live Oak on the Hawk’s Bluff Trail

Slash Pine Bark

For More Information:

Mar 2

Beach through the Trees, John D. MacArthur Beach State Park, Palm Beach

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John D. MacArthur Beach State Park: Southeast Florida’s Haven of Subtropical Coastal Habitat

Located on a barrier island adjacent to Lake Worth Cove — on the north end of Singer Island in North Palm Beach — John D. MacArthur Beach State Park preserves some of the finest examples of subtropical coastal habitat that once covered southeast Florida. The various natural communities afford a haven for rare and endangered indigenous tropical and coastal plant species: the park encompasses 325 acres (of uplands and submerged lands), including a mangrove-lined estuary, coastal and tropical hammock, hardwood forests, beach, and shallow reef. Lake Worth Cove itself is crossed by a 1,600-foot scenic boardwalk.

Activities

Popular activities include swimming, picnicking, and surfing along the nearly two miles of pristine beach, lined with sand dunes and native vegetation; scuba diving, snorkeling, canoeing, and kayaking are also enjoyed by visitors. Hikers can investigate tropical habitats along two nature trails (the Butterfly Trail is no longer present): the Satinleaf Trail winds through a mixed maritime and tropical hammock along the Lake Worth Lagoon, and the Dune Hammock Trail leads visitors across the estuary bridge (boardwalk) and along the west side of the dune. Each time we’ve visited, we’ve traveled both trails, but always end up on the Dune Hammock Trail — and although it’s a casual hike, it’s an absolutely lovely view of natural Florida, that leads down to the beach and the crashing waves of the Atlantic. Birdwatchers can spot osprey, peregrine falcons, wood storks, herons, egrets, brown pelicans, terns, sandpipers, and gulls. Fishing is permitted from the non-swimming areas of the beach, as well as by canoe and kayak in the lagoon.

The William T. Kirby Nature Center further explains the park’s natural communities and its role as a biological treasure to the region, offering Speaker Series and live animal exhibits. Children’s programs, guided snorkeling tours, and “Under Moonlight” concerts are among other special activities hosted by the park. MacArthur also offers guided nightly tours of its sea turtle nests — the area is a top nesting site for the endangered loggerhead, and the green and rare leatherback turtles, who nest from early May through late August. Having attended one of these tours — and speaking from one who was raised on a South Pacific island, accustomed to seeing sea turtles — it’s truly an amazing experience. Just bring your bug spray! Other park accommodations include a small amphitheater and picnic pavilions, both which are available for rental.

History

The park was named for billionaire John D. MacArthur, who once owned a large portion of Palm Beach County (including this land). Donating the land in the 1970s in an effort to preserve it for future generations, John D. MacArthur Beach State Park officially opened in 1989. Munyon Island, named for Dr. James Munyon and itself hosting a fascinating history, is accessible only by canoe or kayak. It allegedly supported one of the largest wading bird rookeries in South Florida. During the early 1900s, Munyon built the famous resort hotel on the island, “The Hygeia,” named for the Greek goddess of health and visited by wealthy (mainly northern) visitors. The hotel burned down in 1915, and the island has since remained uninhabited. But human occupation in these lands dates to 900 A.D., when Native Americans settled in the area. Evidence of their presence comes from recovered artifacts including discarded bones, shells, and pottery that were found in their refuse piles. In fact, the next Speaker Series hosted on March 10 highlights the prehistory of the park — “The Prehistory of MacArthur Beach State Park” — definitely something to investigate.

Contact Information:

10900 Rte. A1A, North Palm Beach, FL, 33408
East on PGA Blvd, across US1 to A1A. Stay South on A1A for two miles
Phone: (561) 624-6950

Hours & Pricing:

William T. Kirby Nature Center: Daily, 9 – 5
Park: Daily, 8 AM – Sundown
$5/vehicle ($4 Single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle)

For More Information:

Feb 15

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A Return to Bluefield Ranch

We finally made a return trip north to hike lovely Bluefield Ranch Natural Area in St. Lucie county, to investigate some of the trails we had previously missed. Sadly, my camera battery died halfway through the 5-hour hike (old battery, for shame!), but I prevailed with my iPod. The site provides a variety of natural Florida habitats, supporting diverse wildlife and plant species, including many on the threatened and endangered species list. More than 3,000 acres (3,285 in total) of scrub, scrubby flatwoods, prairie hammock, wet flatwoods, wet prairie, dry prairie, and depression marsh are protected at Bluefield Ranch, and are home to such wildlife as bald eagle, deer, coyote, alligator, turkey, wood stork, sandhill crane, burrowing owl, quail, and several species of snakes (including rattlesnake). Bluefield Ranch was purchased in the 1930s by David Iglehart, president of W.R. Grace & Company. The original ranch was comprised of more than 23,000 acres, and was used as a quail-hunting haven for America’s wealthy. In the ’60s, the land was turned into pasture for cattle — many existing structures are still visible, including a grain silo, cattle pens, and water troughs. Today hiking, biking, and equestrian trails wind throughout the area, accompanied by a few primitive campsites. (See images below, or “For More Information” for map and trail guides.)

During our initial trip, we believed Bluefield Ranch wouldn’t be far from the turnoff from the last “main” road — we were wrong. Expect some driving on a sandy and bumpy road, before reaching the trailhead. During our last trip, our poor car nearly got stuck in the deep sand — even losing its battery cables to the road’s ruts — definitely a first in our Florida hiking excursions. This time around, the road definitely seemed better, but I’m not sure if that’s because we now have a vehicle better equipped for such terrain.

Biking and horse trails are included, so share the trail where appropriate. Unfortunately, the horses were sharing the hiking-only trails, but at ground-level the entries to some of these trails can be initially confusing. And to date, there’s only one devoted hiking-only loop trail; I’ve read of efforts of biking enthusiasts to open up more biking trails, so I wonder if they’ll do the same for hikers. There’s certainly enough beautiful land to incorporate for trails. It’s a good 1.5 miles to reach the first (and main) hiking-only trail, but it’s worth it — in the far reaches of this trail, where the former Seminole Indian camp is located, breathtaking marsh and dense flatwoods envelop you. The Seminoles stayed in the scrub environments in the summer months, avoiding the flooded swamps and their gargantuan mosquitoes. They moved to the Cypress Creek swamp in the winter. In the 1940s however, they were evicted from their camp (at what is now Bluefield Ranch Natural Area), accused of stealing a calf from a rancher.

Another interesting bit of history: During the Prohibition, illegal stills were constructed on the site by bootleggers — for personal consumption as well as for providing an income to support their families. Their remnants can still be seen at Bluefield. Unfortunately, and despite our best efforts, we still haven’t found any bottles. Logging was also an active industry — sadly, the area was completely logged of its virgin trees in the 1920s and ’30s, as was true in many regions of Florida.

On our return from the hiking loop, we investigated some old structures off-trail, that ran parallel to the 1.5-mile entry walk…. We didn’t know if they were remnants of the ’30s Bluefield Ranch, or something else. Obviously others had done the same — dog tracks were mixed with those of deer. It looks as though the area at some time had been a camping settlement, with purposed (albeit now long-abandoned) trails and overgrown open areas. Interesting. Other sites along the hiking trail: An observation tower overlooking a large wetland habitat used by wading birds including herons, egrets, sandhill cranes, and wood storks. Magnificent vista!

After a solid 5 hours of hiking, the water finally caught up with me (sometimes it really is easier being a boy!). Stupidly I forgot my tissues — so as I was writhing in pain and walking at a snail’s pace, Dave finally cut off a bit of his shirt, for me to bring as I dug my hole. Ahhh, the joys of long hikes! The funniest part was meeting up with the other pair of hikers (our only encounter) on the return trip, as he was sporting that super-stylish half-shirt….