photography | Serenity Spell

Feb 26

Feathers, Fur & St. Francis at the Ancient Spanish Monastery

During our recent visit to the most sublime historic site, the Ancient Spanish Monastery — also known as the Monastery of St. Bernard de Clairvaux, or the Spanish Monastery — we encountered an unexpected amount of wildlife in this tiny sanctuary, tucked away in North Miami Beach’s expanse of concrete. A significant cultural and religious monument, the Ancient Spanish Monastery remains one of the most important monasteries in North America, and the oldest building in the Western Hemisphere. It’s more than a tourist attraction or a premier wedding venue; this historic site includes peaceful gardens, a setting to meditate and worship, and an opportunity to enjoy Romanesque architecture from the twelfth century — offering you the chance to feel the medieval stones beneath your hands, truly a unique experience in south Florida, let alone the United States. Amidst the 870-year-old architecture (1133-1144) and winding gardens, we startled a hawk at the fountain; being in the middle of our annual South Florida winter drought, animals vie for water wherever they may find it. And the kitties! It seems as though — at least, to a casual observer — that the monastery is doing a superb job with TNR (trap-neuter-release) to control feline overpopulation, especially in (but by no means limited to) city centers. Most everyone knows how useful a few kitties can be to control rodent populations…. So kudos! And another thanks to publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst, who bought and shipped the abandoned Cloisters and monastery from Spain stone-by-stone (despite the fact that it was intended for his private California estate of San Simeon). Without the whims and extravagances of these fabulously wealthy magnates, we wouldn’t now have this serene and lovely spot to enjoy.

St. Francis watches over the critters in the gardens of the Ancient Spanish Monastery in Miami

A resident kitty relaxes and tries to hide in the gardens of the Ancient Spanish Monastery

A resident kitty in the gardens of the Ancient Spanish Monastery

For More Information:

Feb 23

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Miami’s Own Ancient Spanish Monastery

An absolute must for anyone interested with sightseeing historic sites in North Miami Beach includes the Ancient Spanish Monastery, a significant cultural and religious monument we’ve had the fortune to visit a few times. At nearly 870 years old, the Monastery of St. Bernard de Clairvaux, or the Spanish Monastery, remains one of the most important monasteries in North America, and the oldest building in the Western Hemisphere. It’s more than a tourist attraction or a premier wedding venue; this historic site includes peaceful gardens, a setting to meditate and worship, and an opportunity to enjoy Romanesque architecture from the twelfth century, offering you the chance to feel the medieval stones beneath your hands — truly a unique experience in south Florida, let alone the United States.

History

Built in the province of Segovia, Spain, from 1133-1144, the monastery was originally dedicated in honor of the Blessed Mother and named the “Monastery of Our Lady, Queen of the Angels.” It was quickly renamed in honor of the famous Cisterian monk Bernard of Clairvaux upon its canonization. For nearly 700 years, Cisterian monks occupied the monastery, until the Cloisters were seized, sold, and converted into a granary and stable in the mid-1830s, to help feed troops fighting Spain’s revolution.

In 1925, publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst purchased the Cloisters and the monastery’s out-buildings — he had been searching Europe for unique art and architecture to adorn San Simeon, his California estate. Upon finding the abandoned monastery, he dismantled it, and shipped the buildings stone-by-stone to America (nearly 36,000 stones in total), packed in protective hay in more than 11,000 numbered wooden crates. Ah, the whims of these exceptionally wealthy magnates — thank goodness for their crazy escapades, because they’re now being enjoyed by all, ironically. Unfortunately, hoof-and-mouth disease had spread in Segovia, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, fearing contagion, quarantined the sprawling shipment upon its arrival to the U.S., and burned the protective hay. During the re-packing process, however, the stones were misplaced in the previously numbered crates, and Hearst’s financial problems compounded the situation. For the next 26 years, they sat untouched in a Brooklyn warehouse — until they were purchased in 1952 for $19,000 by W. Edgemon and R. Moss. It cost $80,000 to transport the stones to Florida, and another 19 months and $1.5 million to re-erect the monastery. Today, some unmatched stones remain in a back lot; others were used in the construction of the present Church’s Parish Hall.

Museum & Exhibits

Although there is no museum in the strict sense, the monastery hosts a permanent exhibit of objects celebrating the history of this important cultural and religious landmark, including:

Markings of the freemasons who built the monastery
Life-sized statue of Spanish King Alfonso VII
Stained-glass windows
Medieval French altar
16th century Spanish hearse
Chapter house
Historic coat of arms of patron families

Contact Information:

St. Bernard de Clairvaux Church
16711 West Dixie Highway
North Miami Beach, FL 33160
(305) 945-1461

Hours & Pricing:

Monday – Saturday, 10 AM – 4 PM (closed due to special events)
Adults: $8 / Children: $4 (5 and under are free)

For More Information:

: Gardens and Exterior, Ancient Spanish Monastery, Miami

: Entry Arch of the Ancient Spanish Monastery, Miami

: Columns and Arches of the Courtyard, Ancient Spanish Monastery, Miami

: Romanesque Vaults, Ancient Spanish Monastery, Miami

: Prayer Well, Ancient Spanish Monastery, Miami

: Rod Iron Window of the Ancient Spanish Monastery, Miami

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Feb 15

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A Return to Bluefield Ranch

We finally made a return trip north to hike lovely Bluefield Ranch Natural Area in St. Lucie county, to investigate some of the trails we had previously missed. Sadly, my camera battery died halfway through the 5-hour hike (old battery, for shame!), but I prevailed with my iPod. The site provides a variety of natural Florida habitats, supporting diverse wildlife and plant species, including many on the threatened and endangered species list. More than 3,000 acres (3,285 in total) of scrub, scrubby flatwoods, prairie hammock, wet flatwoods, wet prairie, dry prairie, and depression marsh are protected at Bluefield Ranch, and are home to such wildlife as bald eagle, deer, coyote, alligator, turkey, wood stork, sandhill crane, burrowing owl, quail, and several species of snakes (including rattlesnake). Bluefield Ranch was purchased in the 1930s by David Iglehart, president of W.R. Grace & Company. The original ranch was comprised of more than 23,000 acres, and was used as a quail-hunting haven for America’s wealthy. In the ’60s, the land was turned into pasture for cattle — many existing structures are still visible, including a grain silo, cattle pens, and water troughs. Today hiking, biking, and equestrian trails wind throughout the area, accompanied by a few primitive campsites. (See images below, or “For More Information” for map and trail guides.)

During our initial trip, we believed Bluefield Ranch wouldn’t be far from the turnoff from the last “main” road — we were wrong. Expect some driving on a sandy and bumpy road, before reaching the trailhead. During our last trip, our poor car nearly got stuck in the deep sand — even losing its battery cables to the road’s ruts — definitely a first in our Florida hiking excursions. This time around, the road definitely seemed better, but I’m not sure if that’s because we now have a vehicle better equipped for such terrain.

Biking and horse trails are included, so share the trail where appropriate. Unfortunately, the horses were sharing the hiking-only trails, but at ground-level the entries to some of these trails can be initially confusing. And to date, there’s only one devoted hiking-only loop trail; I’ve read of efforts of biking enthusiasts to open up more biking trails, so I wonder if they’ll do the same for hikers. There’s certainly enough beautiful land to incorporate for trails. It’s a good 1.5 miles to reach the first (and main) hiking-only trail, but it’s worth it — in the far reaches of this trail, where the former Seminole Indian camp is located, breathtaking marsh and dense flatwoods envelop you. The Seminoles stayed in the scrub environments in the summer months, avoiding the flooded swamps and their gargantuan mosquitoes. They moved to the Cypress Creek swamp in the winter. In the 1940s however, they were evicted from their camp (at what is now Bluefield Ranch Natural Area), accused of stealing a calf from a rancher.

Another interesting bit of history: During the Prohibition, illegal stills were constructed on the site by bootleggers — for personal consumption as well as for providing an income to support their families. Their remnants can still be seen at Bluefield. Unfortunately, and despite our best efforts, we still haven’t found any bottles. Logging was also an active industry — sadly, the area was completely logged of its virgin trees in the 1920s and ’30s, as was true in many regions of Florida.

On our return from the hiking loop, we investigated some old structures off-trail, that ran parallel to the 1.5-mile entry walk…. We didn’t know if they were remnants of the ’30s Bluefield Ranch, or something else. Obviously others had done the same — dog tracks were mixed with those of deer. It looks as though the area at some time had been a camping settlement, with purposed (albeit now long-abandoned) trails and overgrown open areas. Interesting. Other sites along the hiking trail: An observation tower overlooking a large wetland habitat used by wading birds including herons, egrets, sandhill cranes, and wood storks. Magnificent vista!

After a solid 5 hours of hiking, the water finally caught up with me (sometimes it really is easier being a boy!). Stupidly I forgot my tissues — so as I was writhing in pain and walking at a snail’s pace, Dave finally cut off a bit of his shirt, for me to bring as I dug my hole. Ahhh, the joys of long hikes! The funniest part was meeting up with the other pair of hikers (our only encounter) on the return trip, as he was sporting that super-stylish half-shirt….

For More Information:

To view the Bluefield Brochure & Trail Map, Click Here
Bluefield Ranch Natural Area
Bluefield Preserve
St. Lucie County to Let Hunters Kill Wild Hogs in Natural Areas

Multi-Use Entry Trail, Bluefield Ranch

Flatwoods, Bluefield Ranch

Entry to Equestrian Loop, Bluefield Ranch

Lovely Old Tree, Bluefield Ranch

Prairie and Flatwoods, Bluefield Ranch

Burned Slash Pines, Bluefield Ranch

Slash Pine, Bluefield Ranch

Hiking Trail, Bluefield Ranch

Swamp, Bluefield Ranch

Hiking Trail Trees, Bluefield Ranch

Dense Flatwoods, Bluefield Ranch

Dense Flatwood Hiking Trail, Bluefield Ranch

Scrubby Flatwoods, Bluefield Ranch

Prairie Hammock, Bluefield Ranch

Observation Tower, Wetlands Area, Bluefield Ranch

Bluefield Ranch Signage

Bluefield Ranch Sign

Map of St. Lucie Conservation Areas

Feb 1

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Arthur’s Butterflies

A brief hike within Arthur R. Marshall Loxahatchee National Wildlife Refuge — along a secluded section of cypress swamp bordering a sliver of meadow — yielded both heavy blossoms and lots of…BUTTERFLIES! While the human male was busy exploring, I was exceptionally careful not to trip over any large, scaly objects as I thrashed about the bushes at the water’s edge, chasing butterflies. I had nearly crossed paths with one particularly large and silent scaly object — quite unlike a butterfly — in my efforts to photograph these lovelies…. Last picture proof positive to always be aware of one’s surroundings when hiking near water in Florida, and to be fully respectful and knowledgeable of alligators’ behavior. This certainly isn’t the first close encounter with these interesting creatures in our years of Florida hiking, nor will it be the last.

My mother would *not* be happy….

For More Information:

Zebra Longwing Butterfly (Heliconius charitonius)

Viceroy Butterfly (Limenitis archippus), Arthur R. Marshall

Zebra Longwing Butterfly (Heliconius charitonius), Arthur R. Marshall

Queen Butterfly (Danaus gilippus), Arthur R. Marshall

Ruddy Daggerwing Butterfly (Marpesia petreus)? Julia?, Arthur R. Marshall

Viceroy Butterfly (Limenitis archippus), Arthur R. Marshall

White Peacock Butterfly (Anartia jatrophae), Arthur R. Marshall

Ruddy Daggerwing Butterfly (Marpesia petreus)? Julia?, Arthur R. Marshall

White Checkered-Skipper (Pyrgus albescens) (?), Arthur R. Marshall

Hullllo, Mr. Alligator. You’re not a butterfly.

Jan 24

4 Comments

Jonathan Dickinson State Park: Strolling JD to Riverbend

Jonathan Dickinson State Park offers an ideal exploration of natural Florida, providing a vast ecosystem filled with wildlife in 13 natural communities. Sand pine scrub, pine flatwoods, mangroves, and cypress swamps cover the entirety of the park, nearly 20 percent of which is comprised of coastal sand pine scrub, an environmental community so rare that it’s been designated as “globally imperiled.” The Loxahatchee River — Seminole for “River of Turtles” — was federally designated as Florida’s first “Wild and Scenic River” in 1985, and runs through Jonathan Dickinson, originating in Riverbend Park to the south.

A portion of the Florida Trail winds throughout the park, but be sure to double-check its start points — they’ve recently altered one of them. It includes two interconnecting hiking loops — the East Loop and the Kitching Creek Loop (see trail guides within the links, below). Each are provided with their own primitive campsites — something we’d like to do while the weather holds. The loops are linked via a short connector trail through pine flatwoods, and are popular with hikers and backpackers due to the fact that they’re the furthest campsites from the park’s entrance. The total hiking distance for both loops is 17 miles. While we haven’t yet done both simultaneously, we’ve done them separately — and we’re in the process of investigating the portion of the Florida Trail leading to Riverbend Park.

It was a perfect day for such an exploration — overcast. Four hours of hiking Jonathan Dickinson’s terrain, and one is thankful for cloudy skies (or at least my Irish skin always is). After passing stately rows of centuries-old cypress and live oak along the Loxahatchee River (into which the Kitching Creek flows), we headed into the lovely cypress swamps — always my favorite — before breaking out once again into the open pine flatwoods. We only saw one other backpacker on his way to the primitive campsite, in the late afternoon — outside of the family of feral pigs (wild hogs) and myriad birds (we tried looking for the maniacal owl), that is. We’ll definitely be returning to complete the hike, and soon.